February 2006
Haute cuisine
What’s in and what’s out in convention F&B
By Linda Chandler


Whether you attribute it to the proliferation of cooking shows on TV or the phenomenon of celebrity chefs, there’s no doubt that American consumers are developing more discerning palates for food and beverage (F&B). Planners expect more creativity, and attendees are more vocal about disappointing food. Challenged by rising expectations, many convention center caterers are focusing on higher quality and presentation. To find out the latest trends in convention F&B, EXPO interviewed some of the industry’s premier players to find out what’s hot and what’s not. Here’s what you need to know about ordering F&B in 2006 to make exhibitors and attendees happy.

Upscale presentations
Michael McQuade, Director of Sales and Marketing for the Washington State Convention and Trade Center (WSCTC, www.wsctc.com) in Seattle, says when it comes to sit-down dinners, attendees “want the same if not better food experience than they get at hotels and expect higher levels of presentation.”

Those expectations have driven WSCTC to invest in higher-quality tableware, flatware and glassware and to stock a variety of linen colors. “You can’t say white is the only option anymore. We even have arrangements with suppliers to outsource beyond our inventory if the planner is willing to pay a little extra,” McQuade says.

Levy Restaurant Group (www.levyrestaurants.com), the catering company of McCormick Place in Chicago and several other convention centers, is one of many catering companies bringing restaurant-quality experiences to the convention scene.

“No one wants a dull, unimaginative steam table buffet,” says Levy’s Damien McArdle, Regional Director of Operations for Convention Centers. “We do ‘chafing-less’ cooking, avoiding stainless steel trays and instead using cast iron or copper pans and other interesting serving pieces to liven the presentation and stimulate conversation.”

McQuade says, “Food preparation should focus on sight, smell and sound, as well as taste. We put florals on all our buffet stations — big, five-foot arrangements that create instant recognition that ‘this is where the food is’ and give an unexpected feast for the eyes. We use decorative urns for coffee.”

Another aspect of presentation is the room setting. Increasingly, convention center expansions and renovations are including ballrooms with more elegant ambience for dining, including nicer carpeting, wall treatments and lighting.

The Starbucks effect
The ubiquitous presence of Starbucks represents the growing demand for upscale variety combined with the familiar. McQuade compares the branding of coffee to Pizza Hut, McDonald’s and even the early concept for Holiday Inns. “It gives people something they’re comfortable with wherever they are. Coffee is a major line item in F&B budgets and if some convention centers can make it an up-charge option for beverage service, it keeps them competitive,” he says. Not surprising, Starbucks is the house brand at WSCTC.

Many convention centers now have a Starbucks outlet on site, run by the convention center or managed independently and offered as a public service. Robin Preston, CEM, Assistant Executive Director, Conferences, Exhibits and Sponsorships for the National School Boards Association (www.nsba.org), Alexandria, VA, says her attendees will walk the distance to take advantage of Starbucks on their own.

The taste for branded, upscale coffee translates into other areas of F&B service. Preston has offered gourmet doughnuts at breaks. Other planners are requesting gourmet popcorn, gourmet cheeses, higher-end liquors and branded water or energy drinks.

According to Ric Booth, Assistant General Manager, the George R. Brown Convention Center (www.houstonconventionctr.com) in Houston offers not only plain popcorn but also blueberry, garlic, barbeque and other flavors, and McArdle says Levy’s chefs might prepare four or five flavors of hashbrowns for a breakfast buffet.

The Broadmoor (www.broadmoor.com) in Colorado Springs, CO, does not offer branded coffee, but Executive Chef Siegfried Eisenberger prepares a coffee station with international flair, including different roasts and blends, such as Swiss chocolate, combined with flavored creams and a variety of sugars. He finds attendees’ tastes more sophisticated than 10 to 15 years ago.

Fresh food, fresh prep
Caterers agree that planners can save money when they give their attendees the opportunity to sample fresh, regional fare. In most cases, the demand for fresher foods means working closely with local growers and suppliers. In Washington, that may mean asparagus and green beans, as well as apples and salmon; in Texas, melons, grapefruit or quail; in Baltimore, crab. More planners are requesting creative menus, often accomplished by using what’s in season and readily available locally.

Almost every part of the country now showcases locally produced wines and microbrews, and convention center caterers have found that travelers enjoy sampling and comparing local beverages. Local cheeses and organically grown produce are also more common on convention center menus.

Action stations focusing on fresh preparation are also growing in popularity, even on the trade show floor. McArdle says his staff has rolled in potted lemon and orange trees, pulling off the fresh fruit for drinks or juicing them for attendees. He’s even put logs sprouting with fresh mushrooms on the station where a chef is sautéing vegetables or making omelets or fresh pasta dishes.

Based in San Diego, Brett Lewis, Corporate Executive Chef for Centerplate Catering (www.centerplate.com), says, “Customers enjoy the synergy of interacting with chefs who can prepare fresh dishes with personality and flair. It showcases the food while adding an element of entertainment. We see people conversing with the chefs and coming back to the same chef on consecutive days, making a connection with the food and the person preparing it.”

Art Zehnder, Director of Sales and Marketing for Aramark (www.aramark.com) at the George R. Brown Convention Center, is seeing more receptions with action stations and fewer passed hors d’oeuvres. “Besides the fresh preparation, it satisfies eclectic tastes and gives the caterer the opportunity to accentuate regional specialties,” he says.

Groups like to take advantage of Las Vegas’ growing emphasis on celebrity chefs and high-end culinary restaurants, says Karen Knox, Director of Catering and Banquets for The Mirage (www.themirage.com). “For groups of 500 or more, we’ll produce a ‘dine-around’ menu with themed stations presenting samples from different gourmet restaurants, providing menus so guests can later visit their favorites on their own.”

Eisenberger agrees that action stations are becoming more popular, adding that guests often take small samples of everything. “In this travel age, people are more open-minded and not so bashful about trying different things. It’s exciting for the chef and staff to be able to create more exotic food items and serve fresh dishes with variety and international color. We can do Asian and Italian, but we also focus on fresh local fare like lamb, buffalo or fresh game.”

McArdle is starting to see sit-down dinners being replaced by heavier dinner receptions with several chef stations. “It’s more social, for one thing,” he says, “and people can ‘graze’ or make a meal. Regardless of when and where it’s served, people still expect freshness, and they really like seeing things prepared and cooked before them.”

For groups of up to 400 people, Eisenberger can produce a “Chef’s Parade,” using as many as 25 chefs. They carve to order and create custom sauces at the table.

Specialty drinks
Besides the trend toward upscale coffee, teas are also becoming more popular, says Knox. People are drinking more herbal and special blend teas. Knox also says bottled water is here to stay, and there’s definitely less soda consumption for breaks.

Alcoholic beverage use shows different tendencies, depending on the group demographics and the location. Generally, people are favoring wine and beer over spirits, but martini bars, margarita bars and signature drinks are popular.

Booth and Zehnder say that in Houston, “People want higher-end alcohol but are drinking less of it. And there are definitely no four-hour open bars anymore.”

Annette Hicks, Director of Meetings and Expositions for the Texas Petroleum Marketers & Convenience Store Association (www.tpca.org), Austin, TX, still offers a full bar for her group, but Preston serves only beer and wine and issues drink tickets to control alcohol consumption. Lou Mancini, Vice President of Operations for JD Events (www.jdevents.com), a Connecticut-based management company, offers an open bar but serves only beer, wine, sodas and water.

“Vegas still sees high liquor consumption,” says Knox. “Alcohol is rising here, especially along the lines of specialty or retro cocktails. We even create new names for drinks to work with themed events.” She agrees that there’s a growing taste for higher-end brands.

Less is more
For a while after 9/11, comfort food was in, but planners and caterers recognize the importance of keeping attendees energetic and attentive whether they’re sitting in educational sessions or walking the trade show floor. Consequently, preferences are generally shifting back to lighter, healthier fare. “It’s high-protein, fewer heavy sauces and creams, more grilled vegetables and less starch,” says Zehnder.

Portion sizes generally are getting smaller, too, says Hicks.

Tastier and more creative menus trump bigger portions, Preston says. “Answering to lighter culinary tastes, we served a grilled marinated flank steak with Caesar salad and an apple tart at our meeting in Denver and, when we had chicken, it was stuffed with spinach and pine nuts — not your ordinary chicken. People prefer higher quality, like a pesto-marinated salmon, to larger servings of ordinary fare.”

Zehnder notes a trend away from decadent desserts. “These days, we’re more likely to do lighter things with berries, lime sauce and even non-dairy whipped cream than big slabs of chocolate cake,” he says.

It isn’t that guests have given up their tastes for sweets altogether. Eisenberger now prepares sheet pans of cheesecake instead of traditional rounds. “People are more likely to appreciate smaller, bite-size pieces and a bit of variety. They still satisfy the craving for something rich, just not as big,” he says.

“The perception of healthy and fresh is good,” says McArdle, but he cautions against going overboard. “People want substance and recognizable food — we’re not talking tofu sandwiches. But even with grab-and-go fare, you have to offer fresh quality salads and sandwiches. ” 

Above all, stand out from the crowd
Mancini says there’s a tendency for things to be cookie-cutter, the same from show to show year after year, but planners can use F&B service to create distinctive memories for attendees. “If you can provide something unique and unexpected, it’s a positive that sets you apart from competitors; you’re not just another trade show.”